Tag Archives: Lunigiana

chestnut honey, mountain views, secrets things and places, and other sweet things about living in the Italian countryside

The only way to see Italy is with an Italian, or someone that has lived here for many years. We are still discovering secrets about Italy everyday.

As most of you know, Frank and I have lived in Italy now for over 15 years, enjoying our summers here with family and friends. You have also heard me say that Italy is like an onion. Most tourists only scratch the surface, so when reading all these travel guides, keep in mind the best stuff (just like the olive oil) is reserved for Italians.

The only way to see Italy is to see it with an Italian, or someone that has lived here for many years. We are still discovering secrets about Italy everyday. It’s actually one of the many things I love about Italians. Unlike Americans, Italians are not over-sharers. In Italy you have to earn trust, and then the world opens up to you like an exotic flower. The treasures here are endless, and the rewards of putting your time in will be the exquisite payback for your patience. Finally, right about now, I am starting to feel like I have a few Italian secrets of my own to share. It only took 25 years, LOL.

We lived on the Italian Riviera for 15 years, and now we are living the countryside in a very unknown region called Lunigiana. We live on 27 acres with a working vineyard and giant ancient fortress that has kept me on my toes for just about a year.

I will say country life agrees with me, and I can see growing older here watching the changing seasons in mountain range that is our view. The life is slower here, the people are authentic and friendly which is a big difference from living in a bustling vacation destination like Alassio where people only appear each summer.

People here stop by and drop off eggs from their chickens, chestnut honey from their bees, freshly jarred preserves from their fruit orchards, and olive oil from last fall’s harvest. It’s pretty much what I expected in my fantasies, but the reality is so much richer.

Everyone eats local here. Hell, we eat out of our garden: lettuce, eggplant, zucchinis and herbs. Tomatoes abound; they literally sprung out of the earth as soon as we planted them. We have sour cherries and figs, and our plum trees and grape vines are maturing as well. Unlike in the US, in the country here in Italy, it’s no big thing to eat off the land everyday. So yes, I love it. Milk comes from the cows and goats up the mountain, and beef comes from the steers down in the valley. You can smell the steers as you drive by the butcher/slaughter house everyday.

One of the things that surprised me was that when we lived in Alassio, there was so much pressure to dress in the latest fashion and look presentable everyday. I would never go out on the streets without the “right” look. Here it is easy, and the feeling of fashion pressure is gone. It’s more laid back and therefore much more livable. I have slowed down. Enjoying nature is something that is a daily routine. What’s in my closet is an after thought.

I will continue to write about my experiences here in the Italian countryside this summer.

As you know, I am in the middle writing a book of our story here in Italia.

Stay tuned for more updates, and for now I will relish all the gifts from my surroundings, the people that live here, and all the secrets Italy has to show me. The secrets I have patiently waited for.

ciao xx

Photo credit: Frank Joseph MD

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The Cheese ladies of Metro, Lunigiana, Italy

C H E E S E !!! … full disclosure I could live on it. In our region, we have many local cheese makers. Goat cheese and cows milk as well. Sydney and I (if you read the last post you know Sydney is our son’s girlfriend; she’s studying nutrition here in Italy for the summer as she gets her degree to become a registered dietitian) traveled high above the mountains of Metro to meet and try local cheese made by a mother daughter team of cheese ladies. The Mama is about 90 and still works actively in the processing kitchen. In her white wellies, she scoops the whey and makes the pecorino, the ricotta, and the mozzarella. We had the pleasure of touring their tiny but immaculate facility in the back of their small but well-stocked cheese and salumi store.

The aging room was my favorite part. Neatly stacked cheese just waiting to be picked from the shelves to be enjoyed.

We went home with a new pecorino, aged for 4 months, and a more pungent pecorino aged for 2 years. Mama tossed in a mozzarella ball as a gift to be discovered when we unpacked everything for lunch at noon. What a enormous treat, and you know I will be back to buy more….once we’ve polished off the wedges that we took home.

Thanks to my friend Davide for taking a minute to show us this delicious place.

xx Annette

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House Hunting in Italy part five

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Everyone has been asking me since I returned from my summer in Italy if we found a house.??!??

If only it were that easy. As I have said in past posts, finding a house in Italy is a mission, it’s like the holy grail. My friend Heike and her husband looked for 15 years before they found their dream home. This is not Under the Tuscan Sun folks, this is real life! In Italy one might fall in love with several homes only to find that after spending money time and emotional energy the house of their dreams is not for sale, because 2 of the 12 siblings that own it are not interested in selling.

It’s true, Frank and I were sure that we were buying the most amazing house in our town last year! Only to find out the man showing the house, one of the owners I might add, did not have the permission to sell it to us, from his sisters, brother in laws and cousins. They had no idea he was showing us the house. So buyer beware is how one proceeds in Italy.

Not only are the laws complicated about buying property but one must make extra sure who is selling the property, plus if it’s all the parties who own the house interested in selling. Since everything worth having in Italy is passed down to many generations. As Americans it is impossible to wrap our head around this complicated process. Even after living in Italy for 7 years having bought property there I’m still surprised by how daunting it is.

Even finding a real estate agent the is kosher and motivated in Italy is a challenge. Here in the states if you put the word out that you want to buy a home, agents will be showing you homes until you drop. In Italy you have to beg them to take you to look at properties. It’s so chill that at times I wanted to throw in the towel. So it’s not like in the movies. I did see many properties this summer, just none that really felt like home. So to answer your question, no we did not find a house this summer, so the search will continue next year, for now a little break is welcome.

Here’s the last batch of photos I took, the first property is a small borgo (village) of 4 buildings, the owners really let it go, and the only thing that was well cared for is their horse that grazed on the property. I was really put off that the poor horse had to hang out day after day alone on this abandoned property, it really put me off, and the only thing I wanted to buy was the horse.

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The second property was the Villa I had already looked at, I went back to see the second floor which was not opened last time we toured the home. Typical the house is owned by 2 sisters, who hate each other, and so when we came back we met the other sister and she unlocked her side of the Villa, I am serious everything plays like an Italian soap opera when you start delving into real estate.

I am still not convinced that the Villa is not wonderful, Frank and I will visit again in the spring. One thing that does make house hunting pleasant in Italy is that since the agents are chill, property does not move quickly and chances are Frank and visit every single property I did this summer.

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I am optimistic it’s out there, our Italian Farmhouse…it’s waiting for us…When we find it you’ll be the first to know. Ciao for now xx

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House hunting in Italy part three

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As you know by now, Frank and I are on the hunt for a property in Italy (read more here). We have lived on the Italian Riviera every summer for the past 7 years, our flat is amazing(!) but it’s time to move on to a house. We want a place where we can have a vegetable garden and where I can conduct styling workshops and cooking classes all summer long. We’ve decided to sell our flat, although parting with it will be bitter sweet. It’s an amazing place with an amazing view, and we love the fact that we can just walk into town in 1 minute’s time, and we love our neighbors.

This weekend I spent time with one of my oldest and dearest friends Forrest, in the Lunigiana as you you might remember from previous posts. He and his partner are trying to convince me to have an open mind and look in their neighborhood. So we took a little time and tooled around the countryside to see about some possibilities.

Buying real estate in Italy is complicated, don’t let anyone tell you otherwise. Along with the very complicated rules, laws and regulations, there are many pitfalls that a foreign buyer can fall into. So, it is important to surround yourself with trustworthy people, knowledgeable about buying in Italy. It’s a great buyers market here right now, but the economy is depressed and so be aware, there are people desperate to sell and therefore one must be extra careful.

For example we had our sites set on residence that was once the summer home of a Marquee in Genova and his family retreat. An incredible property with an amazing garden and beautiful views. The seller was eager for us to buy it. Once we checked into all the facts, it turns out he wanted to sell, but his entire family of 12 needed to sign off on it as well, this is something he neglected to mention when negotiating with us. Good thing we were already clued in, and knew that our lawyer (called a Notaio here in Italy) had to clear the deed first. So unfortunately we had to move on, since he was the only one in the family wanting to sell the property to us.

Buying here is daunting and can take years, so I suspect I will be posting about all of these adventures for at least the next 2 years. It’s a journey and an adventure, patience is key.

As they say in Italy, “the house will find us” and not the other way around.

Here are a few shots of some things I saw in Lunigiana, I will continue the hunt and take you along for the ride. It’s going to be bumpy, and winding road, just like the back country roads of Italy, where we will likely find our new Italian home…ciao for now … xo

IMG_4672 IMG_4767 More house hunting: part one | part two

 

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